Brake Pads and Rotors

Okay now that you can do your own oil changes let's take it one more step - brake pads and rotors.  Obviously you'll need new pads and rotors for your car, but you'll also need:

~ jack
~ jackstands
~ rachet and socket set
~ tire iron
~ hammer (if necessary)
~ C-clamp

1. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheels. **LOOSEN ONLY!! DO NOT REMOVE YET!!**
2. Raise the car and position the jackstands underneath it the same way you did when changing the oil.
3. Remove the lug nuts and remove the wheels.
4. Loosen the caliper bolts (location: back of caliper).
5. Remove the brake pads.
6. Use one of the old brake pads and the C-clamp to push the caliper piston back in.
7. Remove the knuckle (bracket that holds brake pads) bolts (location: back side of rotor).
8. Remove rotor **note: this may require some effort to remove if the rotor hasn't been replaced in a while**
9. Put new rotor on.
10. Put knuckle and brake pads back on.
11. Put caliper back on.
12. Ensure all bolts are tightened and place the wheel back on and tighten lug nuts.
13. Lower vehicle.
14. Repeat for other brake set ups.

Let's Start Simple:

Okay, the easiest way for you to save yourself money is to do your own oil changes. You only need a small assortment of tools to complete this job:

~2 1/2 ton jack
~2 jackstands
~basic metric socket set
~drain pan
~empty 5-quart jug to put waste oil in

There's a chance you might get dirty on this job so its best to wear clothes that you wouldn't mind getting oil stains on.  Now you are ready to start!

1. Apply the parking brake
2. Place jack just underneath the front of the frame, just behind the sway bar (picture 1)
3. Lift vehicle high enough to place the jackstand underneath it.
4. Repeat 2 and 3 on the opposite side of the car
5. Position drain pan and use a 14mm socket to remove the drain plug (picture 2)
6. After oil is finished draining reposition drain pan underneath the oil filter (on the front of the engine block)
7. Unscrew and replace the filter
8. Remove jackstands.
9. Refill the car with oil. **START WITH 4 (FOUR) QUARTS!!**
10. Start vehicle and allow to idle for approx. 30 seconds
11. Shut the vehicle off and check oil level. Add if necessary.

You now know how to change your own oil. See? Not as hard as you thought right?

Picture 1                                                                       Picture 2

The Beginning Years

The first generation SL and SW were made from model year 1991 to 1995. The first Saturn to leave the assembly line in the Spring Hill, Tennessee factory was on July 30, 1990, the same day that then-CEO of GM, Roger Bonham Smith, retired. It was maroon with a tan interior.

Originally there were two available trim levels. The SL1 trim level featured a SOHC 1.9 L I4 LK0 engine that was rated at 85 hp (63 kW), which was upgraded to the 100 hp (70 kW) L24 engine for the 1995 model year. The two engines were mechanically identical, save for the upgrade from TBI to sequential MPFI. The SL2 trim level featured a DOHC 1.9 L I4 LL0 engine that was rated at 124 hp (92 kW). Both the SL1 and SL2 got 29 mpg_-US (8.1 L/100 km; 35 mpg_-imp) city, 35 mpg_-US (6.7 L/100 km; 42 mpg_-imp) Highway.
1991-1992 model year Saturns featured the base "SL" available with a manual transmission only, an "SL1", "SL2", and "SC".

For model year 1993, the line expanded to include the SW1 and SW2 wagons, which were mechanically identical to their SL1 and SL2 counterparts. All models received an interior redesign for 1995. All S-Series cars were offered with either a 5-speed manual transmission or a 4-speed automatic transmission. The automatic featured a performance setting which gave crisper shifts at a higher RPM, and a setting for traction in which the transmission would stay in 2nd gear from a stop for more controlled take-offs. The Saturn transmissions in the DOHC-equipped vehicles were geared to enhance acceleration, while the SOHC-equipped model transmissions were geared toward economy.

The S-Series had a 12 US gallons (45 L; 10 imp gal) fuel tank, which means that both cars got around 384 miles (618 km) on a single tank based on average of 32 mpg_-US (7.4 L/100 km; 38 mpg_-imp). Owners of the base model typical report real-world fuel mileage of about 38–41  mpg_-US (6.2–5.7 L/100 km; 46–49 mpg_-imp) on the highway with the manual transmission.

Saturn's 1.9L DOHC Engine

The DOHC (Dual-Overhead Camshaft) cylinder head had 16 valves and was made of lost foam cast aluminum. The camshafts were held in the cylinder head with bearing caps and driven by a chain off the front crankshaft sprocket. Motion from the camshafts was transmitted to the 16 valves by direct-acting hydraulic lifters.

 All LLO engines used MPFI and were rated at 124 hp (92 kW) and 122 ft·lb (165 N·m). The DOHC engine was available on the upper-level model S-series vehicles (SC2, SL2, SW2). A revision of the LL0 appeared in 1999 and used a roller camshaft with hydraulic lifters and rocker arms.